I know I can’t be the only rider who’s struggled to extricate themselves from beneath their bicycle like an upside-down beetle trying to right itself.
Shimano’s SPD-SL system has remained fundamentally unchanged for many years. Each new generation of pedals typically only receives minor improvements, often to slightly reduce weight.
They are indeed the way to go. I use XT pedals for commuting on the crosser, Saints on my MTB and XT caged pedals on the Cervelo too (the latter does earn me some looks of disgust though)!
Within the six-model line of Xpresso pedals, the 199-gram 10 is the first version that uses a carbon pedal body. The 10 features a hollow-steel axle and rotates on steel bearings. Time introduced the patented Iclic design that sets it apart from its competition. This system holds the retention system open until the cleat is in place. The Xpresso 10 utilizes a carbon-blade tension system with three adjustable settings. Time touts their low stack height (from the centerline of the spindle to the base of the shoe) as another key feature.
The only issues I’ve witnessed is with two owners of SRAM etape systems who didn’t charge their batteries, so were stuck with limited years in the Pyrenees, but they could swap the front and rear mech batteries round, so low gears for the climbs and then big gears for the descents. Didn’t seem ideal.
If you’re more of a trail rider, but want the best of the best, this is the pedal for you. It’s the previous generation, but that shouldn’t have any impact on the performance.
What good is a pair of road cycling shoes without pedals to go with them? In this third round of CT Recommends, we take a look at what CT staffers are using for road pedals.
First off, these are not the super-lightweight option core racers seek. But at about 4.5 ounces (127.5 grams) per pedal, they’re not overwhelmingly heavy either. For comparison, these are nearly 100 grams heavier than the lightest AeroLite option. But they’re still about 100 grams lighter than the Shimano Ultegra carbon-steel pedal.
With the tension adjustment left untouched for my first couple of rides, I found unclipping tricky. Even with the tension screw backed off completely, things still felt quite tight. Thankfully, after a few more days on the trails, the mechanism bedded in, things loosened up and clipping in and out became easier.
Tension is adjustable, though accessing the 3mm hex bolt is awkward. The level varies from tight, to really-friggin-tight. I certainly wouldn’t put a new rider on these pedals, because their tenacious hold can be intimidating. As the cleats wore in and I got used to them though, I steadily increased the tension to about halfway. Any more than that and you might dislocate your knee trying to unclip.
A good pair of cycling shoes can make or break a ride. They help keep your feet comfortable, improve power transfer, let air in to cool your feet on hot days or keep elements out during the winter. Mountain bike and gravel shoes have various features that make them better suited, or not so well suited, to different cycling disciplines. Here we run through the individual parts of the humble shoe to help you get the one that is right for you.
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