Ask Pinkbike: Back to Flats, Inches of Squish for Enduro, and Pondering the Next Upgrade | Bike Flat Pedals

I’ve been riding for: Under 5 years  I ride: Every day  I would class myself as: Experienced

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ION RAID Amp II The RAID Amp II has extra padding at the ankle for rowdier days. Claimed weight 400g in size 42. $129 USD.

The M424 pedals are excellent for commuting. Because you don’t actually need to be clipped in to use them, you can simply stamp on the pedals as the lights go green and then clip in when you are up to speed.

Plus, in a way an inner tube is an even more meaningful gift, since when was the last time a sock saved you from being stranded 90 miles from home? (That was a rhetorical question, though please feel free to address your epic “How My Left Sock Saved My Life” pitch to Outside’s features department.)

Disagree with the Speedplay comments above. I moved to them this year and yes I hated them for a few weeks and was considering eBaying them.

Otherwise, I’ve been really impressed with the performance of the Infinito X1 shoes, but the only thing that doesn’t impress is the rather big price tag. £325 is a lot of money to spend on a pair of kicks, though it’s worth shopping around as you can find them cheaper. Not as cheap as the Shimano XC7 shoes that Rachael reviewed recently however. Still, if you want maximum performance and aren’t put off by the price, they’re a good pick.

The traditional tyres for racing are tubulars. These hand-made tyres have the tube sewn (or vulcanised) inside the tyre body (hence their other names of sew-ups or singles). Punctures are difficult to repair. The tyre is glued to the rim with a liquid adhesive or a double-sided tape. So even replacing a tubular tyre is a lengthy exercise. Clinchers have lower rolling resistance than tubulars. This is primarily due to the energy absorbed by the glue in between the tubular tyre and rim. Clinchers, however, are unsafe to ride once punctured – the tyre almost always comes off the rim unless you ride very gently. Repairs can be done roadside in only a few moments, so there is little reason to continue riding a flattened clincher.

For obvious reasons, I’m doing all my riding in winter boots at the moment. I treated myself to a pair of Shimano MW7 boots. Nice and comfy, stiff soled, but not impressed with the new design. I used to be able to get away with the odd ‘dab in a stream’ with my old MW80’s, but the new ones have a lycra tongue hidden under a flap which quickly lets water in when they’re submerged, as opposed to the older design with a waterproof leather tongue. Summer riding is done in a pair of Lake SPD boots.

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The A600s also provide a reassuringly secure hold, they’re as easy to engage as conventional road pedals since the body always hangs at the right angle, there’s ample tangible and audible feedback from the entry and release, and there’s a good range of tension adjustment on tap as well.

Or just buy a shoe from their RT range which are road shoes with smooth ‘touring’ soles. I have RT82s currently. They use the same last as my XC mtb shoes so it’s an easy swap and I know I’m comfortable in either.