Five mountain biking myths that just aren’t true | Carbon Fahrrad Umwerfer Installationssatz

The trails here are quite different to where I usually ride, though. Leafy, wooded undulating chalk land is pretty scarce in the corner of the Pennines I call home. I’m more used to wide open moorland, liberally strewn with rocks. Calderdale in Yorkshire has woods, sure, but mostly precipitously steep ones, with weirdly grippy Millstone Grit under tyre and sardonic Yorkshiremen in flat caps eating chips cooked in dripping commenting impenetrably as I inevitably hurtle over something foolish. There are steps. There is weather. All of the weather. Frequently, all of the weather at once. My local riding has incrementally become something of a gnar-fest. Granted, my enthusiasm usually outweighs my competence, but riding for any length of time in Calderdale gently massages you down a greasy chute of tech. Of course, there’s plenty of non-technical riding too, but a ride’s not a *proper* ride unless there are liberal helpings of thrutch, a couple of ‘oof’s and (usually) more than one whimper.

Most flat pedals run on a cromoly steel axle, though fancier ones may come with titanium ones. Between that axle and the body will be an assortment of bearings and bushings, plus a load of grease. Most modern flats run a combination of one bushing near the crank end and a bearing or two on the outside end. While there are exceptions, more expensive pedals tend to run fully on bearings, and cheaper ones might run entirely on bushings.

Off road: still have a soft spot for Time Atacs, use ‘em for CX and XC (with the carbon soled disco slippers). Otherwise Shimano SPDs can be found cheap, work reliably and go on forever.

It used to be pretty simple. If you were into downhill riding and dirt jumping, you rode flats. If you were into XC or any other kind of everyday trail riding, you rode clips. That may still be the case for many riders, but as with many aspects of mountain bikes these days, the lines are getting blurrier and blurrier.

There are two types of clipless pedal. Pedals for road racing follow the original concept introduced by Look in 1984. The cleat stands proud of the sole and is attached by three bolts. This allows an uncomplicated, very rigid sole, but is awkward to walk in. The pedals only have a mechanism on one side, so to clip in you have to catch the nose of the pedal just right, which takes a while to learn.

“We need safer places to ride,” said Lommele, whose organization is based in Boulder, Colo. “We need protected bike infrastructure, more protected bike lanes — comfortable convenient places to ride.”

We still wanted to challenge our habits. For one week in December, some editors, reporters and producers agreed to leave their car at home and try a carless commute for a day into our downtown Phoenix newsroom, near Second and Van Buren streets.

The laces are effective at providing a generous range of tension across the foot, however, the mid-foot loops stubbornly hold the laces in position. To some, this may be a positive as the shoe will keep its adjustment between wears, but for me, I just found it slowed the process. Either way, they serve a functional purpose, and certainly the upper would squirm if it weren’t for them.

The twin sided pedals mean clipping in is easy, and the cleat is recessed into the shoe which allows for easy walking off the bike. Being made of metal and away from contact with the ground, the cleats can last for years.

Essential for road riding, racing and sportive participation, here we look at some of the clipless pedal systems available for cyclists

That difference is a factor in which system’s best for you. If you’re clipping and unclipping a lot — while commuting, for example — then the easier clip-in action of two-bolt systems means you won’t find yourself fumbling with the pedals as you set off from the lights.

 Clearly you’re triggered by my positive reaction and descended into some maddened state ranting about damascene, puns and post-purchase-rationalisations.