Essential for road riding, racing and sportive participation, here we look at some of the clipless pedal systems available for cyclists
The low profile body has a metal plate over the centre, helping to reduce premature wear and increase clearance between you and the road. Along with adjustable spring tension, quality sealed bearings, which cut down on maintenance, and hardwearing cleats these are racer-friendly and efficient road pedals.
Not convinced? We caught up with Compton between ‘cross races in Belgium to get a few more tips for first-time clipless users. All that clipping and unclipping while ‘cross racing has taught her a thing or two.
The only issues I’ve witnessed is with two owners of SRAM etape systems who didn’t charge their batteries, so were stuck with limited years in the Pyrenees, but they could swap the front and rear mech batteries round, so low gears for the climbs and then big gears for the descents. Didn’t seem ideal.
Ostensibly, this allows riders to engage more naturally, pushing the foot forward with the pedal stroke and engaging at the same time.
Eventually, you get so used to the action of clipping in that it becomes very quick, but even when you miss, you still can put pressure on through the pedals. The same cannot be said of my SPD-SL pedals on my road bike! Once you’re in those, you don’t want to have to put your feet down again unless absolutely necessary.
At the top of the pile sits Shimano Dura Ace. If you need the best that money can buy, then this is the option for you. Thankfully we’ve also managed to find a bit of a discount.
That’s not my experience: when clean and in decent condition,  I find they’re solid even with quick or sturdy upstrokes on hills, and that they need a bit of a ‘flick’ to disengage, which suits me fine.
How does the price compare to that of similar products in the market, including ones recently tested on road.cc?
MTB shoes and SPD cleats/pedals FTW. On this one you can ram The Rules – walking like a penguin on ice is ridiculous.
Usually a variant on one of two basic shapes: full-length axle and three-quarter (ish) axle. Full-length axle bodies have an end cap on the outer end, then a hole all the way through it to the crank end (the DMR, Superstar, and Spank pedals in this grouptest are examples of this). It’s a simple and time-tested design that’s typically, but not always, built around bigger and more long-lived moving components than thinner pedals have.
The Hellcats work fine, even with Eggbeater pedals. However, they feel even better with a clipless pedal with a bit more platform. photo: Leah Barber
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