How to service a Shimano M530 SPD pedal | Bike Flat Pedals

This is important! Don’t wait until the last minute to unclip. "As you’re rolling to a stop, shift your weight to the foot that stays clipped in," Compton explains, "and then unclip the foot that you’ll put on the ground and just leave it gently on the pedal, so when you do come to that stop you can put your foot on the ground quickly."

"Phoenix is fine going west until you hit about 32nd Street, then you might as well be in Kabul," he said.

*as this is road cc should point out that "The Rules" need to be considered and then ignored as practicality overules unless you do actually race

Some people find it difficult to distinguish between the upshift and downshift buttons of a Shimano Di2 road system while wearing thick winter gloves. This is something that we hear quite a lot although other users report no issues whatsoever.

In the box you get 4° and 8° float cleat options. Release angle is 13° and they’re supplied with plastic shims, and metal shims for use with carbon soles. A nice touch is that HT includes an 8mm socket in the box so you can pull them apart for routine servicing. After a wet winter of abuse, I did just that. Five minutes and some fresh grease later, they were feeling nice and smooth again.

I’m quite relaxed – and calm, its a long weekend after all - and I promise I have a very firm grip. Although I am confused why you get to slate things but I don’t, and by the way your responses drift into ad hominem attacks. I don’t care that you think I suck (you’ll be unsurprised to learn that you aren’t alone). I’m relaxed that you don’t think I know how to use speedplays. You are probably more skilled/more technical/a better rider than me (you certainly aren’t unique in that regard).  I still think speedplays are shit (and you still think they are great) and because it’s the internet I get to say so (and so do you) and neither of us are forced to change our views. 

The CNC machined cromoly spindle rolls on a big Igus bushing and an outboard needle roller bearing. On the end of each spindle is a tiny little thrust bearing preloaded by a wave spring, which helps to mitigate lateral play while accommodating axial loads. It’s all very neat, but the guts are only sealed with a single O-ring, so wet weather riders will want to clean them periodically. If things do get crusty, service kits are available for £11.99.

Not convinced? We caught up with Compton between ‘cross races in Belgium to get a few more tips for first-time clipless users. All that clipping and unclipping while ‘cross racing has taught her a thing or two. 

They need to be plugged in and recharged every 35 to 100 miles. Also, they’re heavier than a regular bike. The battery and all the technology add about 20 pounds.

The UCI had previously allowed national federations to develop their own rules for clipless pedals. In 2013 the U.S.’s sanctioning body, USA BMX, banned clipless pedals for all Novice racers, regardless of age. Riders who moved up to Intermediate and Expert racers have been allowed to use the pedals.

MTB shoes and SPD cleats/pedals FTW. On this one you can ram The Rules – walking like a penguin on ice is ridiculous.

At just 140g for the pair, they’re phenomenally light thanks to carbon bodies, titanium axles, aluminium top plates and ceramic bearings. Clipping in is very easy thanks to a spring mechanism that stays open after you click out.