Once you undo the black lock bush, the chromoly axle and all of the spinny bits come out of the pedal body with it. On the end of the axle is a lock nut, and then the primary cone that you use to adjust the preload on the bearings. Just like a Shimano hub, there are two rows of cup ‘n’ cone bearings, and each one contains 12 large diameter ball bearings, which are quite a bit bigger than what you’ll find in the average cartridge bearing used in many other pedals.
One company, Speedplay, has bucked the consensus. Its pedals are double-sided, the mechanism is part of the cleat and that cleat has a four-bolt mounting. A three-bolt adapter is included with them, as few shoemakers have a suitable shoe in their line. More about Speedplay below.
Speedplay’s ‘lillipops’ are road specific pedals that gain their power-transfer-platform from the cleat, as opposed to the pedal. This means the cleat needs looking after as it’s integral to an efficient pedal stroke.
Using only 8 pins per side, the Black Kats lacked the grip and concavity of the other pedals in the test. They are the thinnest pedals I reviewed, but this comes at a cost.
“I was skeptical when the Blades first came out a few years ago, but I’ve liked them so far. I’ve used Look or Look-compatible pedals for most of the time I’ve been riding, with a couple of forays into Time and (Shimano) SPD-SL.”
In all trail scenarios, I’ve found the length of the XT pedals to be nice and supportive, with plenty of stability through the arch of the foot. Having gotten used to the enormous platform of the Pedalling Innovations Catalyst pedals (which measure 130mm long!), I tend to run my feet quite far forward on the pedal surface, positioning the axle almost right in the middle of my shoe. I find this helps with overall stability and power transfer, while reducing strain on my achilles and calf muscles. For this type of riding position, the big platform of the XTs is fantastic.
You also win on battery life. In 3 years with EPS, I charged only every  2000 miles, & it wasnât screaming to be charged even then. Iâm currently running Di2 & you need to be much more vigilant as to the charge level. I get about 800 miles before I lose the front mech, which is my reminder!
I don’t find they’re particularly expensive considering how much I love them either. And definitely haven’t found anything weak about them mechanically. They’re rock solid.Â
I use flats on my road bike as well as my MTB thanks to having dodgy knees in the past, which used to benefit from my moving my feet around on the pedals slightly when I felt ‘tension’ behind my knee caps. I think I’m nervous about upsetting them again by trying clipless.
“I have had a few weird squeaks coming from the worn metal faceplate, but a drop of chain lube quietens them down for a few months.”
Those that try to justify wearing socks with the sandals as a way to get around these issues should get away with a light telling off, but I draw the line at the true degenerates who insist that wearing them with overshoes is in any way normal.
On some shoes you’ll find a ratchet buckle replacing the top strap. The advantage of a ratchet is that it’s very easy to adjust the tension as you ride, either to tighten it for a big effort or loosen it off if your feet are getting tired.
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